Signs of Good Health

• Alert - Showing interest and reactive to stimuli. 
• Appetite - Note your horse's normal appetite, whether that's constantly hungry or a little bit fussy.
• Sleek coat - A healthy coat is smooth and naturally glossy. The skin should feel supple too. When you run your hand over it, you should see small 'ripples' appear.
• Good body condition - Refer to BCS chart on feeding page. 
• Clear eyes and nose - Eyes should be clear and bright while nostrils are free of discharge (a clear/watery discharge is usually okay, as long as it's not accompanied by any other symptoms). 
• Healthy mucous membranes - The horse's gums should be moist, salmon pink, and *capillary refill time should only take around 1.5 seconds.
• Normal excretion/urination - Manure should be fairly firm, free of offensive odors, and vary from yellow-brown to green-brown depending on diet. Urine should also be free of offensive odor and pale yellow to amber in color. 
• Sound limbs - Limbs should be free from pain, heat and swelling. Movement should appear sound and hooves free from flares, cracks or discharge/offensive odors. 
• Normal vitals - See below.

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Signs of Poor Health

Disinterested and/or lethargic - A horse standing in the corner of their stall with the head hanging down can be the first sign something's wrong. 

Loss of appetite - Seeing how most horses are usually very food-motivated and greedy at feeding time, a loss of appetite should definitely be payed attention to. 

Dull coat - Usually indicative of a nutritional deficiency, but can also be caused by the cold, worm infestations, skin problems, and general poor body condition. 

Poor body condition - Refer to BCS chart on feeding page. 

Abnormal discharge - Discharge from the eyes and nostrils usually indicates an infection. 

Abnormal excretions/urination -

Too hard: constipation
Diarrhea: anxiety, infection, or poisoning. 
Too soft: worm infestation, or too much rich grass.
None: impaction (read Colic symptoms).

Dark and smelling of violets: azoturia
Thick and cloudy or blood-stained: kidney disease.
Straining, bloody or none: Could be indicative of a bladder infection, cystitis, or even colic.

How to take vitals:

Rates given are normal for a healthy adult horse at rest (can vary with age and condition)

Temperature (99.5-101.5°F): 

Lubricate the end with vaseline and, standing to one side, insert the thermometer so that it's held at a slight angle against the wall of the rectum. 

Pulse (30-42 bpm):

Foals' pulse rates will be between 50-100 beats per minute. 

1. Use a stethoscope, pressing it firmly against the horse's girth area (just behind the left elbow), and listen for the heart beat. Count the beats for fifteen seconds and then multiply by four. 
2. Press two fingers against the facial artery, which is located on the inside edge of the horse's lower jaw.
3. Pulse can also be found in the radial artery, inside the foreleg.

Respiration (3-16 bpm):

The horse must be standing still, at rest. Watch the rise and fall of their flanks, counting either one or the either (the complete rise and fall is one breath). 

* Capillary Refill Time (approximately 1.5 seconds)

Press your thumb into their gums for a few seconds, long enough to blanch the area, and then count the seconds it takes for color to return to that area. A delay of 2-3 seconds can signal mild dehydration. However, longer delays indicate reduced blood circulation due to blood loss, more severe dehydration or decreased blood pressure (eg. shock). 

Abnormal mucous membranes - 

pale: anemia
dark red and dry: fever
tacky and dry: dehydration
yellow: possible liver issue/failure
red with blue/purple tinge: pneumonia

Check for dehydration too...

Pinch the skin on your horses neck or point of shoulder and watch how quickly it returns to normal. If a horse is dehydrated, the pinched skin will tent and remain folded for a few seconds. 

What to keep in your horse's first aid kit:

  Extra tips and tricks 

- Diapers make great temporary bandages or poultice wraps. 

 - I personally keep both mineral oil and Swat in my medicine cabinet, instead of Vaseline. The mineral oil serves as a good lubricant for both the thermometer and in some colic cases, while the Swat is both an ointment as well as a fly repellent. 

- In addition to a wound ointment, I suggest stocking a wound spray, in order to disinfect sensitive/untouchable areas. 

- I recommend including a bottle of Wonder Dust in your first aid kit because it can stop bleeding and prevent the development of proud flesh. 

- Duct tape definitely comes in handy. It can be used to waterproof leg bandages or temporarily wrapped around a hoof when a shoe has been tossed to prevent chips and keep it clean/dry. 

- Attach a piece of string to your thermometer, so you don't lose it in your horse. 

- If you're confident in your abilities to administer medication to your horse, you might consider stocking Banamine (provides some relief during colic) and Acepromazine (a sedative) for emergencies. However, even if you have these medications available, always consult your vet before administering them. 

- Having a flashlight can be helpful, if you have to examine the horse's eye or a wound at night.

- Writing the expiration date on a piece of tape and placing it on the front or top of each item in your medicine cabinet, can help you keep things organized and up to date. 

- Keeping a jar of peanut butter or individual cups of applesauce around can prove useful when trying to give your horse Bute. 

Rectal thermometer and a stethoscope.
In order to take vitals, as described above. 

Sterile gauze strips (assortment of sizes).
To clean and cover minor cuts and wounds

Surgical gloves.
Keeps your hands clean and prevents wound contamination. 

Cotton rolls.
Useful for applying pressure bandages or dressings for more severe cuts and scrapes. 
(be careful not to apply directly to the wound, as it can stick. Gauze rolls are better for this).

Wound cleaner (recommend stocking both Hydrogen Peroxide and Iodine). 
Hydrogen Peroxide is great for cleaning fresh wounds and will help prevent tetnus. It's also useful with thrush. However, do not use this after the initial cleaning, as it can inhibit the healing process. An antiseptic scrub like Betadine or Nolvasan can be used to re-clean the wound when changing dressings.

Bandages (you should have both self-adhesive and non, such as Vetrap and a clean set of polo wraps).
Useful for protecting wounds, supporting muscles and even holding an ice/heat pack to your horse.

Antibiotic Ointment.
Prevents infection and some types can provide relief by numbing the area or simply keeping it moist. 

Epson salts.
Great for drawing out infection. Most commonly used on abscessed feet, but beneficial for other cuts 
and scrapes too

Vaseline.
Helpful for lubricating the thermometer and can be used on dry heels as well as to prevent chaffing. 

Saline solution.
Bottles with squirt nozzles are best for flushing out irritated or injured eyes.

Phenylbutazone (a.k.a "Bute").
An anti-inflammatory and pain killer. Available as a paste, pill, or powder. 

Extra towels.
Can be used to wash a wound or held against a bleeding one. 

Medicated shampoo.
Can be very useful for a variety or skin issues. 

Farrier tools.
Helpful if you need to remove a shoe.

Tweezers.
To remove splinters, burrs, etc. 

A pair of safety scissors.
Needed to cut bandaging. 

Medical adhesive-tape.
For fastening bandages. 

Cold Packs
Instant ones are best